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IFS Eliminator Kit Contents:
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If you have any questions
during the installation of your kit, please call us for
assistance. This kit is designed to replace the IFS suspension on 1986-1995 Toyota Pickup's and 4Runners. Installation time is typically 2 to 3 days. In addition to common hand tools, you will also need a plasma cutter or torch, grinder and 230V welder. This kit is designed for use with 1981-1985 solid axles. In addition to this kit you will need to have a custom drive shaft made. We recommend measuring for the drive shaft after the installation of the kit. Using a drive shaft with a minimum of 10" of drive shaft slip spline will prevent the drive shaft from separating due to the extreme flexibility of this kit. Drive shaft tubing should be a minimum of .095" thickness.
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| Axle
Preparation When Installing a solid axle swap, new ring and pinion gears and a locker are normally installed into the front end. Our IFS eliminator kit includes a knuckle rebuild kit and two wheel bearing kits. These should be used to replace worn out parts in your donor front axle upon reassembly. A small 3/8" thick pad is provided for the driver side (left) spring perch. This pad raises the spring mounting surface to match the passenger side. Weld the spring pad onto the left front axle spring perch. Weld across the front and back. Do not weld the sides so that the pad can be removed with a grinder if needed in the future. The upper axle gusset is installed on top of the axle. Place the gusset on the axle and tap lightly with a hammer to seat it on to the axle. Make note of where the gusset contacts the axle and remove all paint and grease from the axle housing. Weld gusset in place using 1" stitch welds. The front diff armor welds directly to the face of the housing and prevents trail damage to the ring gear. Remove the paint from the front of the housing. Place diff armor in position on the housing. The bottom of the armor should sit flush with the step in the face of the housing. Start welding the armor in place from the top down. After welding the top two inches of the plate, stop welding. Using a 5 lb sledge hammer, hit the unwelded part of the armor until it is touching the housing. Continue welding from the top to the bottom stopping occasionally to hammer the armor down for a snug fit. Near the bottom, repeated hard hits with the hammer are needed to ensure a tight fit. After welding on the gusset, armor and spring pad, paint the housing as desired. Once dry, the 3rd member, axles and knuckles can be reassembled. During reassembly, discard the stock steering arms and install the included high steer arms. The steering arm with two rod end holes is installed on the passenger side (right). The steering arm with one rod end hole is installed on the driver side (left) of the axle. Also install provided wheel spacers and torque nuts to 100 ft lbs. Wheel spacer nuts should be retorqued after 100 miles of driving.
Two steering rods with Tie
Rod ends are included with the kit. The shorter rod is
the Drag Link and this will be installed later. The
longer rod is the Tie Rod. Install the Tie Rod with the
left end in the only remaining hole on the left side
steering arm. On the right side of the axle the Tie Rod
is attached to the rear open hole on the steering arm.
The front hole is used for the drag link. Leave jam nuts
loose for now. |
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Unbolt and remove the front axle half shafts, differential, idler arm, tie rod, A-arms, sway bars and torsion bars. Using a torch or plasma cutter, cut off the A-arm mounting brackets. Once removed, use a grinder to remove the remnants of the brackets. Grind until frame is completely smooth and flat (see photo). When removing the the A-arms, part of the engine motor mounts will be removed. This is normal and later, plates will be installed to fill the void created by removing the IFS suspension. Remove as little of the motor mount as possible. When using a torch to
remove the IFS brackets, it is possible to nick the
frame with the torch. If this has happened, fill the
nicks by welding them up and grind flush with the frame.
Use a relatively high stetting on your welder when
filling nicks. |
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Front Spring
Hanger
The front spring hanger can be installed flush with the front of the frame or offset up to 3/4" forward of the front of the frame. depending on the desired shackle angle. With 4" and 5" springs we recommend offsetting the front hanger 3/4" forward of the front of the frame. With 3" springs we recommend installing the front hanger flush with the front frame crossmember. |
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Frame Tubes and
Jigs
Place the frame jig onto the frame and center the jig in the body mount under the firewall. Mark or scribe both the inside and outside of the frame rails. Using a plasma cutter or torch, cut the holes through the frame. The jigs can also be tacked into place and used as a guide during cutting. Slide each frame tube into the frame. Center the frame tube in its hole. After centering the tube, push the tube toward the outside of the frame 1/4". Now weld the frame tube in place. Now do the other frame tube, centering it up and then pushing it out 1/4" before welding in place. Weld both the inside and outside of the frame around the shackle tube.
Final Spring Hanger Welding
Weld the front
spring hanger in place with a series of 2" long
beads
between the frame and hanger. Be sure to fully weld
around the spring hangers as this is where most of
the stress will be transferred to the frame. It is
normal for there to be a small gap between the
bottom of frame and the top of hanger.
Two small gussets
are provided for the top of the front spring
hanger. These should be welded in plate to
support the outer end of the spring hanger (see
photo right)
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Install
Leaf Springs
Place axle under truck and lower truck with springs installed down onto axle. Spring pin bolts should fit into holes on top of axle housing spring pads. Use provided u-bolts to attach axle to springs. Torque u-bolts to 90 ft/lbs. Retorque u-bolts after 100 miles. Check u-bolt nuts are tight after every off-road trip. Loose u-bolts will cause failure of leaf spring pin bolts and can result is loss of steering control. Keep your u-bolts tight! Six u-bolts are provided with the kit. Two round u-bolt should be used on the passenger side on all axles. 1979-1983 axles use two additional round u-bolts on the driver side. Later 1984-1985 axles use two square u-bolts on the driver side. All u-bolt threads should face up. After installation of u-bolts, cut off excess bolt threads so that the u-bolt is flush with the nut.
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Shocks and Shock
Hoops
To install shock hoops
it may be necessary to cut open the inner fender. If
14" shocks are used you will most likely need to
bring the shock hoop up through the fenders. This
may require relocation some items directly above the
shocks. If your using 12" shocks and short style
hoops, there is no need to cut open the fenders.
Using the two 5" X 2"
plates, cover the ends of the motor mounts. Weld the
plates in place and grind off any ruff edges.
Install shocks and hoops
so that approximately 60% of the shock is in the
tube and 40% is out or as close to this as you can.
Exact positioning will depend on spring height,
vehicle weight, and shock choice. Shocks should be
mounted vertically with the "Can" or body of the
shock in the up position.
Test fit shocks before
making any permanent welds. Do not weld near shocks
unless the chrome plating of the shock rod is
covered. If weld splatter attaches to shock rod, it
will damage the shock seal and destroy the shock.
This type of shock failure is not covered by
warranty.
With the hoops tacked in
place and shocks installed, use a ramp or forklift
to flex the suspension. Make sure that the shocks
are not limiting compression or extension travel.
Adjust the position of the shock hoops as needed.
After hoops are
installed, install two gussets on each shock hoop.
The gussets (1" round tubing) will need to be finish
trimmed to fit before welding in position. Steel shock
sleeves (included with shocks) should be installed in the top and bottom of
each shock before installation.
Install the bumpstop extensions
on the frame. Note the axle
moves back as it travels up. The bumpstops should
contact as close as possible to the center of the
extension. We recommend that you tack weld the
extension in place first, then using a large rock,
ramp or forklift, verify that the bumpstop and
extension contact correctly. The gap between the
bump stop and the extension should be 3"-4". It may
be necessary to shorten the bumpstop when using 3"
springs. Actual bumpstop extension length depends on
a number of factors including, truck weight,
accessories such and aftermarket front bumper/winch,
position of front hanger and position of frame
tubes.
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Drag Link & Pitman Arm
Place the steering
wheel so that it is in the center of it's
movement left to right. Bolt on the pitman arm
using the stock nut and washer. Connect the left
side of the steering Drag Link to the the front
most hole in the right side steering arm. Tie
rod ends should have approximately 3 three
exposed threads. Do not expose more than 1/2 of
the tie rod end threads as this can cause an
unsafe driving condition.
With the truck on
the ground, set the tow-in of the front tires at
1/8". This is done by turning the Tie Rod with
the jam nuts loose. Measure the widest part of
the tire at the front and rear of the tire.
Adjust the Tie Rod until the front is 1/8"
narrower than the rear.
Once completed turn
the steering wheel all the way left and right.
Verify that the wheels turn the same amount left
and right. If not, adjust the length of the drag
link or adjust the position of the pitman arm.
Tighten the pitman
nut to 130 ft/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts on the
Tie Rod and Drag Link using an adjustable
wrench.
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Steering
Stabilizer
The steering
stabilizer included in the kit is designed to
help reduce steering wheel vibrations at higher
speeds. To install, weld the notched end to the
passenger side frame rail. Pull the shock out
1/2 half of it's length. Using provided U-Bolts
attach the stabilizer to the upper steering rod
(draglink).
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These instructions are designed as a general installation guide. Installation of many Trail-Gear products requires specialized skills such as metal fabrication, welding and mechanical trouble shooting. If you have any questions or are unsure about how to proceed, please contact our shop at 559-252-4950 or seek help from a competent fabricator. Using fabrication tools such as welders, torches and grinders can cause serious bodily harm and death. Please operate equipment carefully and observe proper safely procedures. Rock crawling and off-road driving are inherently dangerous activities. Some modifications will adversely affect the on-road handling characteristics of your vehicle. All products sold by Trail-Gear Inc are sold for off road use only. Any other use or application is the responsibility of the purchaser and/or user. Some modifications and installation of certain aftermarket parts may under certain circumstances void your original dealer warranty. Modification of your vehicle may create dangerous conditions, which could cause roll-overs resulting in serious bodily injury or death. Buyers and users of these products hereby expressly assume all risks associated with any such modifications and use. Revised 8/20/2006 Trail-Gear Inc. www.Trail-Gear.com
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