I started to shave my rear end last night......

[TC]

First off I just gotta say I never thought I'd be saying those words, let alone on a public forum.
Any way, all my search's came up with the front end being cut down. I stopped when I pulled the Third member out and saw what looks like baffles in the area where the cut would be plus the fact that it doesn't appear that it is going to gain that much clearance for the amount of work involved. I might continue anyway, even if it doesn't increase clearance much I'll be able to replace what I cut out with heavier material.
Can someone link me to a good article with photo's for a rear? Thanks. TC

[Chris Geiger]

Here is a copy of an article I wrote after doing the rear housing on my 1983 Truck.

Rear Axle Housing...

My original rear housing was a 49 3/8" wide (measured flange to flange) pre IFS style (79 - 85). I have chosen to use a later model (1986 - 1995) as they are 51 3/8" wide. With the narrower axle in the rear the super flexey rear springs I am planning to use would allow the 35"+ tires to rub the frame. Using the wider axle will resolve this problem and add some stability off-road with out making the truck so wide that I would have problems with the highway patrol.

To increase ground clearance under the housing here is a neat trick, cut off the bottom of the housing and replace it with 1/4" thick plate steel. This gains about 3/4" of ground clearance over a stock housing and makes the bottom of the housing much stronger. The drain plug (famous for falling out on the trail) has been eliminated. To drain the oil out of the housing it will be necessary to remove one of the third member studs bolts. Welding a nut onto the lowest stud results in a "drain bolt" that is as easy to remove as a stock drain plug.

To start, remove the 3rd member and the two inner baffles. Toss out the baffles. Cut out the housing as shown in the second photo. Slide in an old used 3rd member that you will never again use. Now cut out small plates and tack them in place until the hole is covered. Place the 1/4 thick steel plates so they are 1/4 above the ring gear. After the plates are installed, weld them up inside and out. I also added a section of 1" wide material to protect the ring gear.



http://www.trail-gear.com/bbs/diff/1.jpg

http://www.trail-gear.com/bbs/diff/2.jpg

http://www.trail-gear.com/bbs/diff/3.jpg

[TC]

Thanks Chris, exactly what I was looking for. TC

[TheBandit]

Lots of pictures and links to specifics here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456309