My HJ30 build-up

[optimus]

O.k. so my truck is really a HJ60 but I cut it down into a ute so that does make it a HJ30. Anyway I am hoping that this thread is a good read for all of those who check it out, and I hope that it provides some of you guys out there i the Off-road world with some sweet ideas. Also if I can help :flame: expand their product range then that will be sweet!

Wht I plan on doing here is listing some of the gear that I wanna use, and some of the ideas and methods I use.

Bear in mind I want to keep this car road-worthy.

If any one is interested in some of the work and the previous build-ups on my car check out the first 10 pages here:

http://www.darwin4x4.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=752&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

O.k. so here goes!:happypill:

[optimus]

This is my modification approval from the Road Authority in Aus.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/Untitled.jpg

[optimus]

To build my braking system I will start with the basic 1982 HJ60 system.

To increase the performance of an already lacking standard system :help: I will be using ventilated disc’s (quite possibly drilled and slotted) and more effective callipers from the ’95 and later V6 toyota’s sold in the U.S (the callipers will be brought brand new from :flame: )
The calipers will be twin mounted axially opposite one another on the front differential. I will use ADR approved stainless steel braided brake lines and the most aggressive formula/ composite brake pads I can buy. :rockon:

For the rear end (which will be a huge step-up from the standard drum brakes) I will be using the disc brakes fitted to my 80 series diff.

To ensure that this entire system will function correctly the correct size 1” bore 80 series Master Cylinder, to replace the 7/8” standard bore Master Cylinder. The 80 series master cylinder is a direct bolt-in replacement and comes fitted with a larger reservoir.
I will not be using the brake fluid level ‘:loser: Idiot Light:loser: ’ however as I conduct routine and planned maintenance schedules on my car. With the fitment of my new system I want to shroud and protect the brake master cylinder from mud. I plan on using sheet alloy to create the shroud.

[optimus]

I will remove the inner wheel guards and replace them with sheet alloy.
The new custom inner gaurd will be slightly modified in a different shape to gain more clearance over my tyres and provide more protection for my batteries, wiring, fuel system, and braking system.
This will then give me the opportunity to modify the standard outer wheel arches, and raise the arch and flare them more than a standard wheel arch.

I will also relocate the radiator to the tray of the car. :yespill:

I want to do some half doors for my car :devel: . To stop the elements coming in my car I will get some vinyl windows made up at a car upholsterer. I do also however want to put a drinks holder and a small pocket in the top of the door. To seal up the interior I will use sheet alloy to stop damage from the door bracing, to myself or other occupants of the car.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/60-seriesHalf-doors.jpg

I would like to also remove the standard bonnet spring-hinge and catch setup and replace it with external hinges, (identical to those found on 45 series Land-cruisers). This will require plating and bracing of the underside of the bonnet. I realise this and can achieve that.

[optimus]

The steering will incorporate an 6" travel, 1.5" bore, hydraulic assist steering ram, operating from a tapped and threaded power-steering box (which will be the standard steering box with standard ratios and running standard flow-rates).
However, the power-steering pump would therefore not be capable of running the system and will be replaced by a complete 'Hydro-assist' system from Trail-gear in the U.S. The base of the ram incorporates a 'tab and plate' mounting system which will have to be welded onto the diff-housing.
High tensile bolts are used without.
To ensure that the standard swivel-housing can cope with the extra power and stresses created by the 'hydro-assist' system I will be replacing the standard swivel-hubs with a custom part, cast, and machined in the U.S. The entire assembly replaces the standard swivel knuckles and is replaced by a stronger chromoly unit. The steering arms are also raised (for added ground clearance) and have 6 securing bolts instead of the standard 4.
This system will also require a new tie-rod and drag link made and they will be manufactured out of Seamless Cold-drawn pipe, fitted at each end will be rose joints (heim joints) instead of the ball-and-knuckle joints more commonly associated with steering systems. The rose joints (heim joints) are stronger and offer a larger range of movement than the ball-and-knuckle.

[optimus]

I will be using 'Orbit-eye' Springs from the U.S. :rockon:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/orbiteyetwist4a.jpg

They will be thinner more compliant springs, 6mm thick leaves as oposed to 7mm standard, and 1 less, but longer overall by approximately 3", utilising a Johhnie-joint in place of bushes at either end of the spring pack.

The suspension will be configured of the following:
Front and Rear leaf springs built at Alcan Springs in the U.S. mounted in the standard under axle mounting location of 60-series differentials.

Redesigned and brand new thinner, longer, leaves, the longer springs will allow the use of a longer shackle and thus creating more off-road droop and travel.:p
I will be locating the springs in the standard swivel mount and new wider, stronger, fixed spring mounts I will use longer than standard shackles, however this will not raise the vehicle at all.

At the back,
Use a custom designed anti-wrap bar extending from the differential to the transfer case/gearbox cross member.
Use Bilstein longer travel, remote reservoir shocks, the upper shock mounts will also be custom fabricated to accommodate the greater travel and stress of the newly designed suspension; however they will be mounted to the standard chassis shock bar.

For the front suspension,
I will remove the standard upper shock mounts and in place weld shock hoops, allowing me to use the same bilstein shocks in the front of the vehicle as the rear.

[optimus]

For the front 60-series diff housing I will build it using :flame: six shooter knuckles, rock-ring seal protecting plates, a high-steer kit incorporating hydraulic assist, ARB air-locker, gear ratio of 4.88 (differing from the standard 4.11), brake backing plate eliminatinor, knuckle bracing and housing braces, Longfield 30-spline chromoly axles:devel: (differing from the :eek2: standard heat-treated 27-splines axles), and creeper rings. I am also going to mount quad brake callipers to the diff.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/2007-6stud.jpg

For the rear diff I will fit an 80-series Landcruiser diff once again with 4.88 gear ratio and an auto locking diff centre locker. To mount the diff, I will use the standard 60-series mounting method of spring under-diff. The differential as standard has disc brakes and as such will require a different braking system which has been afore mentioned. The 80-series will however provide an increase in wheel track of about 60mm over standard.

[optimus]

o.k. now, when I get all of my gear, if something doesn't work I will be sure to let you guys know.:mad:
But if it does work :thumbs: you guys will be able to pass on stuff you find on here and maybe we can get a few more Toyota axled FJ/HJ60/61/62 around the place!:cheer:

Also for the guys at :flame: when you see I have done something and it works get it up on your site guys and get the info out there, it can only be good for sales! (it would also be sweet to see you guys with a 60 series diff section or something for when mini-truckers do conversions?!?!)

[optimus]

o.k. guys.
Some of my mates have said that I am going to be having some pretty trick gear going on here but I just thought I would also add some more pix (every one loves pics!!) of a few bits and pieces I have seen around the place that interest me.

Locker for my FJ80 rear diff.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/200lockright.jpg

mmmmmmmmm I need these..... NEED!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/Bogger.jpg

One of these for steering (ram-assist),
and one of these for a Mile Marker.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/pump-225.jpg

Mile Marker.............. :happypill: 12,000lb.:happypill:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/75-52000C.gif

:p getting rid of my aisan's!!:p
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/2007-2343-225.jpg

o.k.this is just sweeet!:thanks: :flame:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/2007-0352.jpg

all angle running!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/redtopImage1.jpg

new brakes!! (4 on the front!!)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/calipers-600.jpg

gotta have these, much better than drilling holes in plate to fix bow shackles to
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/2007-1429-225.jpg

o.k. so that is me for the day, now i just have to get off of the :sofa: and start.

[optimus]

okie dokie.
had a chat to dean @ TJM this morning about winches.
i wanted a 12,500lb winch made by mile-marker and dean can get them but they are ridiculously expensive. $3,000 for one.:sad2:
so then i asked how much the TJM 10,000lb is and it is $2,200 for one, so that is alot cheaper and probably the option i will go for.:thumbs: also spoke to chris at locktup4X4 and looked at ordering my 2 pumps, 1 for steering and 1 for winching.
also have plans this afternoon to go and weigh the car, and pick up some steel to build my rotissirie.
gonna make the rotissirie out of 75x50x2 rhs. should be strong enough as it is only for the cab. but i also need to get some round for the swivel and some plate so that i can lock the thing in place at funny angles.

[optimus]

tried to weigh my car today...............:
:oops:
wait for pics.:sad2:

[jackrista]

look at aussie lockers instead of lock rights. better yet buy a detroit.

[optimus]

detriot's are only about $200 to $400 cheaper than an ARB over here so I think that an ARB might be a better option. then I can use my 2 ARB compressors to charge my air-tanks. :thumbs:

My air tanks are important as I plan on running 2 tanks @ 110PSI for my lockers (1 isolated except for when pumping tyres) and a 30PSI inline reducing valve and 4 outlets (one for each tyre).

At the end of the day open up the 30PSI isolating valve and wa-la 10 gallons (maybe) of 110PSI air to fill 4 37's @ 30PSI. should really cut-down on inflation times.
then i can go :driving: more:happypill:

[jackrista]

have you looked at the irok tyres instead of boogers??

[optimus]

yeah, but where I live it is either dry as a bone or wetter than wet. (live in Darwin, australia).

Would rather have boggers and loose out abit on the rocks (don't have many hills/rocks here) and have better time in mud.

plus also don't have to worry about the on-road manners of the boggers as the car rarely gets driven on the road.

do you have iroks?

[jackrista]

Yes I Run A 37x12.5x15 Radial Iroks.

[optimus]

I have never had a chance to compare boggers and IROKS. but how do they go in the mud? a few guys over here use them for rockier events.

I feel that once a start getting down to 8 PSI there won't be a huge difference between the 2 on rock, although that would depend on the surface. am I wrong?
but in the mud the boggers will completely inhilate the IROKS.

just my opinion.

what is yours?

[optimus]

O.k. so since I have put the car under the house I have only slowly started to work on the truck.:confused:
I have been busy out collecting goodies ;) ;) (finally found pentrene), picked up some steel for my rotissirie, bought some of those paper thin cutting discs, and chucked a 15X8 sunrasia onto my 80 series diff but the wheel didn't fit due to me needing 16" wheels, went and saw Mick out @ the Auto trans shop @ yarrawonga, and discussed options for my drivetrain. (mud-pig) got me thinking about my tranny options and so I dropped in there. Basically my options are a L/C auto (A440F) with a fairey overdrive and a 3rd gear lock-up conversion, with a huge oil-cooler, crawler gears and taper bearings, not needles in the transfer, with (supplied by me) tom woods uni's and 4.88 diff centres. should be stout, and one hell of a first low-low gear!
So depending in moolah ($$$) I might buy myself a drive-train for christmas.
Oh and with any luck I will run 4-sticks, 1 for auto, 1 for overdrive, 1 for 4wd and 1 for Hi or Lo range.:happypill:

So that's about it.

Got mud-racing tonight but should have some good hours to work on the beast today. :D

[optimus]

I realise that a build-up is no good without pix but I have been busy today.

I have stripped my tray, cut out som,e of the wiring removed the front gaurds, cut the front bar off, stripped the interior (except the dash), and did some panel beating on the panels.............

Still tuesday b4 pix........ :D

[optimus]

o.k. so just before I go down today and start on my car I have a few appetisers for you guys.

The green bits on the car are all being removed:hammer: . Example 1: Half doors,
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix021.jpg

Any pink bits on the car are all being welded up. Example 1: drivers side floor pan,
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix022.jpg

The rear hangers sit it this angle:confused: , but they should be on about 35to45deg. not vertical!! but I still got ok flex for an old stock truck.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix010.jpg

I want to move the rear diff rear-wards (will kill the turning circle:sad2: ), 2 inches, this will mean slightly longer leaves and more flex, and by installing this double cardin joint I won't have to have my tail-shaft modified. :D
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix008.jpg

To move the rear diff backwards I need to cut-off this mount. :D
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix012.jpg

[optimus]

o.k. so i worked on the truck today, and this is the old tray mount..............
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix012.jpg

the same mount (other side of truck...........) with green paint......... oh choppy-chopy!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix001.jpg

no more mount. :D much much cleaner. :D
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix006.jpg

Then I cut off more green bits......... and put the tray on. :(
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix004.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix009.jpg

o.k. there were a few clearance issues.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix011.jpg

oh this was the result:
BAD
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix013.jpg

GOOD
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix019.jpg

o.k. so this was the old setup. and the new setup. much much lower. will be damn good for CoG.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix004-1.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix015.jpg

o.k. so there are a few clearance issues.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix016.jpg

um just gotta cut out te green bits. :D
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/build-uppix020.jpg

[optimus]

o.k. so I didn't do alot yesterday (slightly hung-over), anyway squeak came around in the mornign and we had a chat about a few issues we were both having, he gave me ideas on where to put my radiator, and I didn't give him ideas......... just this funny rash :shock:

bwuhahaha :lol: only kidding folks.

any way I went and spoke to the upholsterer yesterday, as planned and spoke to him about sealing up my half door with removable window inserts. The upholsterer had some cool ideas and it was good to disucss some of my option with him.

Then I went to D4X4 wreckers, out at palmy, and he has some junk i need (like doors and front gaurds).
I am not however getting any of the sheet metal until I get my TIG so that I can start work straight away.

also went and got myself a jigsaw so will hopefully modify the tray some more today and get it to fitaround my driveshaft, and uni-joints.

[optimus]

o.k. guys so I was fairly busy today with alot of different things.

I first off concentrated on my fuel tank.
I started off with a Lone Ranger Long range fuel tanke, and cut it up.

O.k. here are 2 shots of the old tank, side and front-on.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2134.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2136.jpg

Step 1. Fill with water.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2137.jpg

Step 2. Cut. Create about 52L tank.
just with this one when I was cutting the top off of it I didn't expect the tank to be enclosed in the upper tank section. I now have to get the upper section welded as well as the ends and the brackets.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2141.jpg

Step 3. Install in back of truck.
with this picture the tank is back to front (the vent is on the passenger side, but when finished it will be on the driver's side). The under-car clearance is very good but it will only get better as I am raising the tank another 3".
Also the rear of the tray will be positioned 4" above the rear of the chassis (where the towball is) which is about an inh higher from where it is now. The front of the tray will be raised 1 1/2' and will be located 5" above the chassis mounts at the front behind the cab.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2158.jpg

Step 4. Check out clearance issues.
The tank will be moved 30mm to the driver side of the chassis, and 60mm will be cut off of the end of the tank.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2153.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2157.jpg

All up today was good, got alot done, and there is more to come. :D

[optimus]

Today I also worked on the tool box to driveshaft clearance issues.

Issue: Only 5" clearance
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2128.jpg

Issue: 8" travel :(
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2124.jpg

Fix: more green paint :D
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2131.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2133.jpg

This is the metal I cut away.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/team199/100_2145.jpg

I do not have pix of tray on car yet (slack I know), but I now have 10" (almost) of clearance. :D Does look sweet installed on truck.

[optimus]

o.k. so i have been fairly busy around the house and with family for the past 3 days so I haven't done alot of work on the car ( and have no pics ).

but I have pulled the dash out, and have tore the steering column down.

I have also organised a door to pick-up on thursday (1 out of 2..........)

anyway back to it tonight.

tonight i hope to have the cab stripped down (with the windscreen left in it for now), and then I have to start fabricating a rotisserie for the cab to go on. I haven't started yet as I needed to get measurements from the underside of the cab, and I also had to go out and get some castor wheels so that i can wheel the rotisserie around the 'workshop' while i work on the cab. I now have wheels and the steel so i am good to go.

[optimus]

um..... so I have been slack.

Well not really......... just busy @ work. :( :(

Anyhow....

I do have some work lined up, and it will be waiting until I get back from work in about 6weeks.

Also I have ben looking into and researching welders.
@ this stage it looks as though I will be getting a Lincoln MiG because I can gett it (including a Mig alloy torch) for less then a TiG. And with the Alloy torch I will be able to alloy weld whereas with the TiG I would have been only able to do ferrous metals. :D

Oh........ I may also have a colour change.......... (but I can't lt the cat out of the bag yet). :D

Anyhowz.

I also need an engineering ticket. :(