View Full Version : New Product - Creeper Joint Link Ends
Chris Geiger
07-03-2008, 01:29 PM
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1576-600.jpg
These heavy duty rod ends are ideal for today's flexible suspension systems. Super strong, these joints will hold up to years of punishment. The outer shell is a single forged piece. The inner flex ball is made from 8620 tool steel and rides on high quality polyurethane bushings. Heavy-duty, hardened steel washers hold the joint together. Creeper Joints are super flexible and allow for up to 40 degrees of movement when used with spacers. A threaded grease fitting is provided on top for lubrication. The flex ball is drilled for cross lubrication flow from the shell to the link mount bolt. Each joint includes a jam nut!
http://www.trail-gear.com/links.html
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/creeper-joint-dims.jpg
Three different flex ball sizes; 9/16" 5/8" & 18mm, allow you to choose the right size to match your application. The threaded section is 1 1/4" in diameter with 12 threads per inch.
Creeper Joints are also available in a shackle mount for use with leaf springs. Using a Creeper Joint on the shackle end of a leaf spring reduces spring binding and increases suspension flex. Creeper Joint shackle mounts are sold in pairs and do not include the shackles, bolts or spring bushings.
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1569-225.jpg
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1586-225.jpg
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1590b-225.jpg
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/2008-1584-225.jpg
bigBs84
07-03-2008, 02:02 PM
Nice:thumbs: you guys finnaly got these ready for sale
Mikey_
07-08-2008, 05:57 AM
Dumb question - how do you take them apart?
Chris Dunbar
07-08-2008, 08:21 AM
Dumb question - how do you take them apart?
There is a snap ring on the other side of the part (not shown).
It will be very difficult to disassemble the joint without a special tool or a press.
There is a lot of squash on the bushing to make the joint tight.
Nobody likes a loose joint! :D
halfxspaid
07-08-2008, 02:49 PM
Does TG have any pics of the shackle creeper joint flexing?
Mikey_
07-08-2008, 03:55 PM
How long have these been in testing? Wondering how strong the clip is - like the idea of the threaded retainer style
Chris Dunbar
07-08-2008, 04:07 PM
How long have these been in testing? Wondering how strong the clip is - like the idea of the threaded retainer style
Matt has been running them in competition this year on his moon buggy, John Robertson has been running them for several months and I have them front and rear on my truck. They have been tested on the trail, competition and in the Crusher.
The snap ring will not fail, the washer will bend and crack at 30,000 LB when trying to push the snap ring out from the far side (side load). When pulling the joint apart from the stud the joint will fail at 33,000 LB (tensile load).
Chris Geiger
07-08-2008, 04:37 PM
Does TG have any pics of the shackle creeper joint flexing?
Yes, this photo can be found at the bottom of the shackle page (the shackle page is listed on the suspension page)...
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/208-1846-400.jpg
j81hatala
07-09-2008, 02:16 PM
Have you guys noticed any wear marks from where the shackle plate looks like it comes in contact with joint as outlined in picture
Jeff
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f162/j81hatala/208-1846-400.jpg
John Gabriel
07-09-2008, 03:40 PM
The shackle does not come into contact with the creeper joint. It is hard to tell from the angle of the picture but there is no contact made.
locktup
07-10-2008, 07:02 AM
How long have these been in testing? Wondering how strong the clip is - like the idea of the threaded retainer style
I've been running them on the front since last year and I have about six runs on the rear ones. NO problems with them what so ever.
Jason
MaXXis85
07-10-2008, 09:55 AM
Any provision to make one fit the frame tube up front?
jtaco1
07-10-2008, 10:05 AM
Any provision to make one fit the frame tube up front?
You probably could take one that is just the joint and notch the bottom of the frame and run a short shackle or drill a hole higher up and put it in place of the shackle tub, but would probably loose most of the flex sue to the shackle hitting the frame.
j81hatala
07-10-2008, 12:12 PM
Great Looking Product, Good Quality and Great price. I will be using them on my moonbuggy as well:flame::rockon:.
locktup
07-10-2008, 03:04 PM
Any provision to make one fit the frame tube up front?
I tried that about 4 or 5 years ago. I ran it for 4 trips and went back to the stock frame tube. Steering at any kind of speed was terrible. I would turn the wheel and a second or so latter my rig would turn. The leaf springs would moves side to side causing steering delay. But it worked great other then that LOL.
Jason
MaXXis85
07-11-2008, 10:06 AM
Yeah i figured there wouldnt be good street handling from that.
gedean
10-04-2008, 01:38 PM
I see that you sell the bungs for joints with a threaded end in 1.25", 1" and 7/8", but the only size thread you show for the joint is 1.25". The bung you sell for the currently available joint would only fit into 2.5" OD .250 wall tubing (2" ID), right? Do you have plans on selling joints with the threaded portion in 1" and 7/8", and if so when do you expect them to be available?
Chris Dunbar
10-04-2008, 05:37 PM
I see that you sell the bungs for joints with a threaded end in 1.25", 1" and 7/8", but the only size thread you show for the joint is 1.25". The bung you sell for the currently available joint would only fit into 2.5" OD .250 wall tubing (2" ID), right? Do you have plans on selling joints with the threaded portion in 1" and 7/8", and if so when do you expect them to be available?
The 1.25"-12 bungs use a 1.5" ID tube (2"x1/4" wall).
We are working on Creeper Joints with 1"-14 threads but have not decided on the other sizes.
gedean
10-06-2008, 11:45 AM
Threaded Bungs 1.25" Thread
Bungs are welded into tubing to create suspension and setting links. Thread size 1.25 - 12. For use on tubing with a 2" ID. Left threaded parts are identified by machined groove, (not shown).
Link Bung, 1.25 Inch, Right Thread, $10, 110074-1
Link Bung, 1.25 Inch, Left Thread, $10, 110113-1
Is what your site says. I assume that what they meant was 2" OD not ID. I think the same mistake was made on all the Bungs.
Thanks for letting me know so fast though.
Chris Dunbar
10-06-2008, 02:00 PM
Threaded Bungs 1.25" Thread
Bungs are welded into tubing to create suspension and setting links. Thread size 1.25 - 12. For use on tubing with a 2" ID. Left threaded parts are identified by machined groove, (not shown).
Link Bung, 1.25 Inch, Right Thread, $10, 110074-1
Link Bung, 1.25 Inch, Left Thread, $10, 110113-1
Is what your site says. I assume that what they meant was 2" OD not ID. I think the same mistake was made on all the Bungs.
Thanks for letting me know so fast though.
The website has a typo for the 1.25" bungs, the rest is OK.
The link material is 2"x1/4" wall. (1.50" ID)
Chris Geiger
10-06-2008, 02:46 PM
Typo fixed.
YeloSub7
10-20-2008, 03:25 PM
so having the creeper shackle setup in the rear, what is the opinion or experience for using them on the street.
Chris Geiger
10-20-2008, 03:39 PM
so having the creeper shackle setup in the rear, what is the opinion or experience for using them on the street.
All Trail-Gear products are for off-road use only.
With that said, I've driven on the street with this setup and I did not notice any change in handling. I did notice that it increased articulation by 1".
YeloSub7
10-20-2008, 07:15 PM
thanks!
darkghost
10-20-2008, 09:47 PM
so not to be noss but what about rebuild kits are they on the market yet as well or if not how soon
Chris Geiger
10-20-2008, 11:01 PM
Do to the high press loads needed to assemble the joint and the special tooling needed to put it together correctly I don't see this being an easy to rebuild joint. I see this it is the sort of thing you run for 10 years and never have any problems with them. It's not out of the question but with how we have built these joints I just don't see them wearing out for a long, long time.
It is easy for us to replace the poly bushing here at the shop with the press tooling we have made to assemble them. If there was a call for it, we could rebuild them in house and send them back. It only takes a few minutes to change out the guts.
We have the bushings, washers and clips all in stock.
darkghost
10-21-2008, 07:57 AM
OK that sounds fair was just wondering as the Johnny joint has the same issue with needing to use a press. But a C clamp and 2 large sockets works for them just did not know the composition of the bushings in them so I figured I would ask if you claim that about them it should be great then. One last question what is the warrenty on them for if they end up sloppy. Jim Morrison
bszen
12-14-2008, 08:33 AM
I have the creeper joints on the control arms of a 97 dodge ram 2500 diesel with 7" lift. I replaced skyjacker rod ends with the creeper joints and have about 5000 miles on it and they are holding up great. I know it is not a toyota but it pulls one.
waskillywabbit
12-18-2008, 08:05 PM
Matt has been running them in competition this year on his moon buggy, John Robertson has been running them for several months and I have them front and rear on my truck.
I get how they mount in the rear...how did you mount them in the front? Pics would help immensely. :D
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